The former French colony of Senegal, independent since 1960 is one of West Africa's most stable countries. Although the country has had its up's and down's since independence, it appears to have largely escaped the rampant, destructive corruption and frequent coups that have bedeviled most of its neighbours. The contrast with The Gambia, which is almost entirely surrounded by Senegal couldn't be more stark and is apparent from the moment we leave Dakar's port and enter the city centre. The first impression is that of Marseille - Mediterranean, French, African, a bit run-down, but many signs of affluence and a thriving economy.

For the first 20 years post-independence, Senegal was run by Leopold Senghor who like Kwame Nkrumah in Ghana was an icon of the pan-African independence movement. But unlike Nkrumah and other independence icons, Senghor voluntarily stepped down and Senegal has been more or less democratic ever since, with peaceful transitions of power. The current president, Macky Sall is coming to the end of his second of two permitted terms. Because of its political stability and undoubtedly helped by its vibrant and internationally known music scene, Senegal again unlike most of its neighbours has a flourishing tourist industry.

So what's the Portuguese (or with thanks to Kevin: "pork 'n cheese"....!!!) connection? For nearly 200 years, beginning in the early 15th century, the Portuguese were the first Europeans to explore the coast of West Africa and begin interacting and trading with the various empires that dominated the region. The current names of several West African countries, including Senegal, The Gambia and Sierra Leone are derived from Portuguese words. Several towns we visit along the Senegalese coast have Portuguese or Portuguese sounding names - Joal-Fadiouth, Saly and Rufisque. The original motive for Portuguese exploration was the search for fabrics, spices and gold but in the end it was the slave trade that became their major economic driver

By early in the 17th century with the decline of Portuguese power, it was the British and French who fought over this area. Ile de Goree, (Goree Island) just off the Senegalese coast from the modern capital of Dakar, became the main base of the French slave trade and remained so for well over 100 years until the abolition of slavery. Today the island, home to around 5000 people is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

One of our fellow travelers who had been to this part of the world before tells us that he can't understand why we would need to spend two entire days in Dakar - nothing much to see or do.

I just found it a shame that we couldn't have spent a bit more time here...