Sadly bidding farewell to our new orangutan friends, we head back down river to catch the return flight to Java. Our destination this time is Jogja, Yogyakarta “the soul of Java”. Or to be more precise, the Yogyakarta region of Central Java where our base for the next few days is to be close to the town of Borodobur

Borobodur temple complex

Borodobur, in the shadow of the fearsome and still active Mt Merapi volcano, is home to the world’s largest Buddhist temple. Built over a period of 50-100 years (nobody knows for sure) at the end of the 8th/beginning of the 9th centuries, this massive structure is not actually a “traditional” temple in that it has no interior chamber. Rather the temple is a series of 10 terraces constructed around an artificial hill. Each terrace is lined with intricate and detailed carvings depicting early Javanese culture, Buddhist doctrine and teachings. There are also numerous statues and stupas, the largest stupa being at the very top of the structure. The whole was apparently conceived as a Buddhist vision of the cosmos. Nevertheless, it is thought that Borodobur was abandoned shortly after the construction was completed as belief in Buddhism waned to be replaced by Hinduism.

For centuries, Borodobur was forgotten. The structure fell prey to earthquakes and volcanic eruptions, frequent occurrences in the area and largely disappeared from view. Between 1811-1815, Java enjoyed a brief period of British rule before the area was handed back to the Dutch. Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, then the local representative of the British crown but better known as the creator of Singapore is credited with the rediscovery of Borodobur. Under Raffles, the excavation of Borodobur began but it was the Dutch who undertook the massive restoration project beginning in the early 20th century. It was a UNESCO-sponsored project in the 1970’s and ‘80’s though that restored Borodobur to its (almost) former glory with experts carefully matching up the intricately carved massive volcanic rock chunks like a giant jigsaw puzzle (our guide tells us that in the earlier Dutch restoration, quite a few of the carvings has been placed upside down!).

Although the main temple is by far the most impressive, Borobudur is actually a complex of three temples, in a straight line over three and a half kilometers from west to east.

Prambanan temple complex

At least as impressive, if not more so is the Hindu temple complex of Prambanan on the outskirts of Jogjakarta. The complex of 244 temples was built in the 9th and 10th centuries likely starting after the completion of Borodobur. By this time Buddhism was in decline in Java while Hinduism was in the ascendency, although adherents to the two faiths mostly peacefully coexisted and likely even created alliances through inter-marriage. This was largely because Java and neighbouring Sumatra controlled sea access and trade routes between China and India. Nevertheless, Prambanan was also quickly abandoned as the centre of power in Java moved further to the east to escape from earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. Much of the complex collapsed in earthquakes over the centuries. Reconstruction and restoration began during the 20th century, but the complex was badly damaged again by another massive earthquake in 2006.

Since the last big quake and under UNESCO supervision, the centre of the complex most particularly the three temples dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma have been restored although the biggest and most impressive of the three, Candi Shiva Mahadeva was said to be undamaged by the 2006 earthquake. Together with Borodobur, Prambanan is the biggest tourist attraction in Java. I found it rather sad though that the authorities who are responsible for Prambanan (and who presumably benefit from the very high entry fee) have allowed the temple complex to be turned into something akin to a theme park. Most of the large crowd of tourists who packed the area on the afternoon of our visit appeared to be locals who largely behaved as if they were passing the time at Disney