Kanha National Park & Tiger Reserve covers a vast area in the state of Madhya Pradesh - dense forest, interspersed with almost treeless plains and meadows some of which are areas of where once were villages that were relocated when tiger conservancy started in earnest in the early’70’s. Kanha also claims to be the inspiration for Kipling’s (and Disney’s!!) “Jungle Book”, but as Kipling himself never visited India (or at least this area) anybody can claim whatever they like so long as it benefits local tourism!

Kanha has gate-guarded entry and the park is only open for a few hours in the morning and later in the afternoon. There seems to be little or no restriction on the number of licensed, completely open, 4-wheel drive tourist-carrying vehicles (mostly known as “Gypsy’s”) that are allowed into the park. When word spreads between the drivers or mandatory park “guides” that one of the “big five” has been spotted - principally a tiger, a leopard or a sloth bear - all courtesy and politeness goes overboard and a vehicle stampede, free-for-all ensues.

Our outstanding and knowledgeable guide, Abi is employed by the Taj luxury camp where we’re staying. He remains extraordinarily calm under extreme pressure and as a result, we have much better viewings than most camera-toting (and pointing!!) tourists. 

Indian Sloth Bears are difficult to spot in the dense forest vegetation, tend to stay hidden and are difficult to photograph when they do emerge as apart from their snout, there don’t seem to be too many distinguishing features. So what comes out is little more than a large amorphous black blob! But with a bit of luck and Abi’s excellent guiding, we’re in the right place when a sloth bear emerges from the forest.

Sloth bears are not sloths, but are so-called because of their sloth-like claws which are used to rip open termite mounds allowing the bear to sweep or even “vacuum” up vast amounts of termites. This is their favourite food, but the bears are omnivores and so will eat about anything. They can also be pretty aggressive and dangerous for humans and numerous attacks are reported every year. 

We’re told that the bear we have a close encounter with was likely out in the open marking his territory - and we witness him “Balou-like” rubbing his back up against the tree, part if the territory marking process