We drive south from Hue and cross the Hai Van (Sea Cloud) Pass. A very windy road leads to the summit of the pass around 2000 feet above the coast. This route south is now only taken by cyclists, motor bikers, tourists and fuel tankers none of which (tourists aside perhaps!) can use the tunnel through the mountain built a few years back by the Japanese. The views are spectacular we’re told, but for the most part we don’t see much on the way up because of low cloud and persistent rain, but as if by magic, everything clears on the down side as we head into Da Nang, a major port and beach resort (likened by the locals to Miami Beach!).
The road south takes us along Da Nang’s beachfront lined by literally hundreds of hotels, from backpacker to luxury resorts. Da Nang’s beaches and hotels are favourites of South Korean, Japanese and Chinese tourists. Our guide tells us that pre-Covid large numbers of flights arrived daily from the two countries and the hotels were full to bursting in the height of the tourist season. Not much activity though as we pass through but presumably that will change as South Korea, Japan and most recently China, have re-opened and the wet season passes
We arrive in Hoi An whose Old Town is largely a well-preserved UNESCO World Heritage site. Unlike most hotels in Hoi An, our hotel on the banks of the Hoi An River is within a short walk of the Old Town's picturesque (but very busy) narrow streets, alleyways and markets. And there are at least a few tourists wondering around - predominantly Europeans, and despite the almost non-stop drizzle, we consider ourselves lucky to experience this fascinating city without the massive crowds that must flock here during the dry tourist season. And just about everyone seems to be getting ready for Tet - only a few days away. Stocking up on food and flowers or heading home to spend the holiday with family. Over Tet, just about everything is closed from Tet "eve" and for several days after.
Tourism aside, fishing is still a major driver of the economy here. So of course....we go fishing....
